Saturday, June 2, 2012

On The Subject Of Macrobiotics

In case your introduction to Japanese food culture was not sushi then it was most likely macrobiotics. 

In yesterdays post "Japan - My Adopted Food Culture" I highlight some of the health benefits of traditional Japanese food practices.   In today's post we will take a look at macrobiotics, which is essentially a variant form of Japanese food culture, which was introduced to this country in the 1960's by its creator George Ohsawa. 

The macrobiotic diet consists of the following: 

Whole grains, especially brown rice: 40 - 60% 
Vegetables: 25-30% 
Bean and Legumes: 5 - 10% 
Miso Soup: 5% 
Sea Vegetables: 5% 

In addition to these basic guidelines seafood, fruit (with the caveat that one not eat fruit from the tropics), natural sweeteners such as brown rice syrup and barley malt, and nuts and seeds may be enjoyed two to three times a week.  There is a list of vegetables that are recommended as well as those to be avoided.

At a glance, the macrobiotic diet, which bears a striking resemblance to the U.S. government food pyramid dietary recommendations, may seem like a "healthy" diet.   In fact many, believing that to be the case, have adopted this variant form of the Japanese food culture in order to claim or re-claim a "healthy" lifestyle. 

One of the things I appreciate about macrobiotics is the sincerity and fervor of its community. 

While I appreciate the diligent allegiance of its proponents, ultimately, I must question the efficasy of a diet that is conspicuously lacking in important macro-nutrients such as protein and fat, not to mention the fat-soluable vitamins, Vitamin A, D,E, and K2.  My primary criticism of the diet is that it essentially removes all of the virtues of the traditional Japanese diet, all of the most nutrient dense and nourishing parts of that food culture, the fish, shellfish, eggs, and fish roe and leaves you with a rather drab nutrient-deficient diet enhanced only by a smidgeon of pro-inflammatory seed oils such as sesame oil, corn oil, and tahini. 

While the traditional Japanese diet has ample omega-3 fatty acids, from fish, the macrobiotic diet is almost totally devoid of EFA's.  The diet, with its exclusion of meat, eggs, and cheese is deficient in B-12, folate and other important B-vitamins.  It is very low in protein and without adequate animal fat it is low in vitamin A, D E, and K2. The diet is notoriously low in calcium, magnesium and zinc.  It can be deficient in vitamin C as well.

In my mind the macrobiotic diet is a psuedo-Japanese diet fashioned to fascinate an American public, who bereft of a national food identity, are quite literally "starving" for authentic food traditions.  While many of us have adopted, or attempted to adopt, this restrictive form of Japanese food culture I wonder how many have actually thrived on it? 

While there may be a place for a macrobiotic diet in the short-term it is not a diet that will sustain long-term health and growth.  At best the macrobiotic diet, with its emphasis on whole, unprocessed organic food, could be an improvement on the SAD diet, and be beneficial as a sort of modified and temporary "food fast" for those recovering from extreme dietary excess.  It is not, however, a diet for young children or those who are in their reproductive child-bearing years. 

Sally Fallon, author of "Nourishing Traditions" has this to say:

Macrobiotic enthusiasts consider rice the most perfect grain, in which the yin and yang energies are in equilibrium.  But the Westerner should not necessarily adopt Oriental rice-eating habits. Asians have larger pancreas and salivary glands in proportion to body weight than Westerners, and these traits make them ideally suited to a grain-based diet.  The Westerner who adopts the strict macrobiotic or Oriental diet, with rice at every meal, may develop serious health problems."

As an aside there is a yearly macrobiotic gathering in the Tahoe National Wilderness each year which I have enjoyed attending periodically.  One has the opportunity at camp to listen to many lectures, often heavy on the theoretical side of things, on the subject of macrobiotics, while the kitchen and cooking classes pick up the more practical aspects of macrobiotics. 

As you may have gathered from previous posts, despite my criticism of macrobiotics, I am really quite fond of the food.  I can wax eloquent on the subject of sea vegetables, pressed salad, and baked kabocha squash.  But, I am not a fan of extreme diets. 

That being said one of the better stories I heard at camp that year came from a fellow of German extraction.   He told us that he had made a trip to Germany and while at a German beer hall was invited to join in with others for a meal of sausage and beer.  Faced with the uncomfortable prospect of compromising his restrictive dietary ideals he wondered how he could "gracefully" get out of the situation.  He wondered if he should not order a cup of chamomile tea and retire early to his bed.   Eventually at some point in his mental cogitations he was able to move from "dour compliance" to rigid dietary principles to "hail fellow well met" in his decision to partake in the food and fellowship that was being offered him with gusto.  He ended up having a marvelous and memorable evening, I am told, and, most importantly, I might add, without suffering any adverse effect from his dietary dalliance.  In fact, he was surprised to find that the next morning he felt wonderfully refreshed and revived for it.

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